Tuesday 2 March 2010

Postscript Tuesday 2nd March 2010

It is now 8.30pm here at the Malla and as I have some spare minutes left on the computer I thought I would add a postscript.
At dinner tonight all the male waiters and a bonny lass called Purnima, it means full moon in English, insisted that pictures were taken of them and myself. I took some of them as well. It was touching that they said they would miss me.I believe that it is because out of the five of us, I was the only one who made a regular effort to converse in Nepali. I must be improving for so many people that I have met have said that they could not believe I have been in Nepal for only 4 weeks. I have enjoyed it immensely trying out new phrases.
In a few hours now we shall be on our way.
Looking forward to seeing you all at home.
Namaste.

Monday 1 March 2010

The weekend in Pokhara written this Tuesday morning

Saturday morning saw us off on the 9.30 flight to Pokhara,ajourney of only 35 mins.
the first impression on landing at this pleasant airport was that it reminded me of Innsbruck, with the green mountains all around. The second thing was the sheer delight to breathe in pure clean mountain air, such a change frompolluted Kathmandu.the peace and quietness of the roads was another surprise but a delightful one.Our hotel was a most interesting one. Each suite was reached by a stone spiral staircase. My suite was most satisfactory with a lounge bedroom and bathroom with 2 balconies. After settling in I decided to go off on a wander of my own (no more window shopping for me) and I ambled along for more than 5 hours through the town. It like K'du has its full share of tourist shops but they look nicer and because of the lack of traffic a pleasure to walk past. At lunchtime I had come to the end of town so I climbed some stairs to a pub, where I sat on the veranda overlooking famous Fewa Tal, the lake of Pokhara, and watched the little fishing boats and pleasure rowing boats glide over the tranquil waters. Below me and stretching down to the lakeside some 200 yards distant were a series of paddie fields dry because of the season and on them the odd buffalo grazing away in peace. To my left about 50 yds away I could see 2 men making a rowing boat, so when I had finished my beer I wandered down and chatted to them and watched their skills. The boat was narrow with a high prow and stern but the woodwork was very impressive. I then wandered along the lakeside path until it ran out and I had to turn left up to the main road.There I met a shoe shine boy called Ashok and decided to have my shoes cleaned. I was given a small square of carpet to sit on, whilst he took my shoes and got to work. A nice way to watch the world go by, and my were my shoes shining all for 80 pence!
I then met a young bearded chap called Amir from Israel who was about to go on a trek. After a wee chat and a final shallom,I next came upon a lad from Turkey who was sitting on a low stool eating a plate of noodles and spicy vegetables, made by a street vendor on his cart. I decided to have some, and it was most tasty...all for 20pence! the rest of the afternoon was spent at the hotel where we ate at night.

Sunday 28.2.10

Awakened by a call from reception at 5.30 so we could leave at 6am to go by taxi, a 35 minute journeyto a place called Sarangot, from where one gets the most unbelievable views of the famous Annapurna mountain range. This is the trip to make when in Pokhara, it is almost a religious experience.We sat at a little table high up on the mountain, a little woman gave us shawls to wrap around ourselves for it was cold at that time, we also were served hot tea.And then about 6.45,the first tiny blush of colour tinged firstly Annapurna south, to be followed by a speck of pink on the majestic peak of Machhapuchhare, the only virgin peak in Nepal, for by government decree, no one is allowed to climb it. As the minutes passed the other peaks in the range came into view, as though rising from the mist like ghosts.All the peaks in this range are over 20,000 feet, and are most impressive. We sat there quietly, contemplating so many things of wonder, it was like a son et lumiere show without the son! Memorable. We returned down the corkscrew mountain road arriving back at the hotel by 8.40am
After breakfast at 10 am a taxi came to pick me up and take me to the Gurkha museam and depot. Iris Lea asked if she could come as she was not keen on visiting bat caves with the other women. On arrival at the meuseum, a veteran dressed in uniform snapped to attention to welcome me. He knew who I was and escorted me to the managers office for an official welcome. he was one Lt. Thakur Bahadur Rana ex QGE, and what a gentleman he was to me and my guest. A wee bit strange to be called sir all the time but that is the way it was. He produced as I had requested whilst at AWC GWT K'du 2 GWT ties and very smart they look. You should like the tie James. He then, after the obligatory cup of black tea, rang the guardroom of the British Gurkha depot to alert them to our appearance. There too, some 100yds away up the road, we were greeted like royalty, were given a tour of the depot which of course was scrupulusly clean and then to my delight was reunited with about a dozen ex 10th Gurkhas, a truly grand meeting, and all of them so smart and well spoken and respectful, but I did not expect anything else. It seemed for a while that I had never been away from the regiment I felt so at home with those wonderful men. We then returned to the museum where Thakur Bahadur personally showed us around. What an experience. I shall relate more to James when I return. Suffice to say this was the fulfillment of my dream of coming to Pokhara! Quite quite wonderful and most emotional when we drove away. A never to be forgotten time. Ayo Gorkhali!

Sunday was also the festival of Holi, the festival of water and colour. Everyone goes mad throwing water at any one who passes by but they also throw coloured water and powders over you, mainly red colours and many folk have their shirts ruined. We were fortunate for we missed all of that probably because we were at the museum and depot
In the evening I visited for the first a Japanese restaurant. I asked to be given a selection of delicacies including barbecued teryaki beef, superb, tempura, sushi,and various meats on skewers all with different sauces. Jenifer and the family will be pleased to know that I really enjoyed it. That then was Sunday in Pokhara. What a day!

Monday 1.3 10

After breakfast I went off by taxi to the international mountaineering museum the only one of its kind in the world. It was set in parkland, way out of town and very very peaceful. When I was there, there were only 3 other visitors.The museum is spectacular and chronicles everything one would want to know about the Himalyas.What was surprising was the amount of rubbish left on the slopes of mount Everest by climbers. A Japanese climber organised clean up operations in 2001 and 2003 and took away some 20 tons of rubbish! What remains since I do not care to speculate upon. In the grounds is a mock up Tibetan village, and closeby a nice restaurant. I sat there with a cup of black tea taking in the peaceful surroundings and watching the goats munching away at the grass. Next year is tourism year Nepal. If more visitors are to get to this wonderful museum I think the roads to it must be upgraded, for they are quite dreadful at the moment huge potholes everywhere.

At 3.30pm we flew back to the big smoke and traffic chaos.
That evening I hosted one Beepin and his wife Gillian (who is English and from Mansfield but who has lived here for the past 2 years). Beepin is the coordinatour of socialtours who organised all the trips and flights that we have made, and he deserved to be my guest for dinner as a way of saying thanks for all his help.

Almost at the end. I have somehow packed my case, and am ready for the off early tomorrow.

Pokhara is indeed such a world apart from Kathmandu, it is to many the real Shangri Laa and I would go along with that. It is such a change from the big city, it is more laid back, people come here to chill out by the beautiful lake and who can blame them. It is also the starting point for treks lasting from 2 to 23 days in the Annapurna range. I was struck by the fact that so many single women are here to go trekking, they are most courageous in my opinion.

So, that's about all folks as Bugs bunny was wont to say.

It has been some experiece, the children will haunt me for some time to come I know. I just hope I was able to give a litle light and love allbeit for only a few moments

So, for the last time all I can say is thanks for reading the blethers of an old man I have enjoyed writing the blog.

Nepal dhanyabad,

Namaste!

Just a short note

It is now 17.10 on Monday.
I have literally just got back from Pokhara and am quite honestly tired out... enjoying myself! Sympathy most definitely not required!
I have the whole day tomorrow to tell you about my latest adventures, Pokhara must be the nearest to Shangri La that I know of! Dawn at the Annapurna range on Sunday morning was breathtaking. Sunday morning from 10am saw me at the gurkha museum and at the British Gurkha depot, whre I was feted as if I was the colonel in chief!
Sunday evening was a first for me in a Japanese restaurant.I know Amy, Ruth Jennifer, Duncan George et al will be pleased to hear how I got on.
This am visited the only international mountaineering museum in the world! Again it was great.
Tell you all about the weekend when I feel refreshed tomorrow morning.
Once more namaste from Nepal.

Friday 26 February 2010

Antim din mah orphanage ho

This am was the last day at the home.We played games sang songs some activity games and all the kids had an apple an orange and a banana which as a result of me badgering the hotel staff, were donated by the Malla hotel. the children all sat around in a circle and thoroughly enjoyed the fruit. I have mentioned that the state of their teeth is really quite superb. I saw not one with a carious tooth. The reason must be there is no eating between meals (this am was an exception) and they do not eat any sugary things in their diet.Just after noon was bathday for all the children. They line up outside the bathroom, strip off, throw their clothes on the floor to be collected and washed and laundered later, then two by two the enter the bathroom to be splashed with tepid water, lathered down and sloshed with basin after basin of water all whilst standing upright on the wet floor. It is almost a conveyor belt process and they stand so still and let the didis wash them, a few scream when they are spashed with a bowl of water, but all in all they are ever so good. My last sight of so many of them was them having their bath my wee favourites included. They insisted I took their pictures. At 12.45 we had a final meeting with Shruti the coordinator who garlanded us all yet again and proceeded to present us with a thank you certificate.
We did not see the children again.So it is goodbye to Rabin,Sonia, Nina,RAm, Laxman, Bibek,Chakra, Ganga, Sienna, Barstad, Lucky. What they must be feeling this afternoon is anyones guess.
We took a taxi back to base, but had to get out and walk for about half an hour because of gridlocked roads. This time it was another protest against the governing political parties.Later today we go off to have a final dinner.
tomorrow as I have mentioned we fly to Pokhara where I look forward to the GWT meeting, and to seeing and photographing the Annapurna mountain range.
So yet again namaste to all.

Thursday 25 February 2010

Almost at the end

Today is Thursday, and tomorrow is the last day I shall be at the orphanage, for on Saturday morning I fly off with the other members of the group to Pokhara for a 2 night stay, returning here to the Malla hotel next monday afternoon, to get packed up for the journey back home next Wednesday.
It has been quite an experience for me attempting to entertain little children for most of the day. Had it not been for Margaret one of our team, I doubt i would have survived, for she gave a structure to each morning and I have to say the kids really enjoyed. I became therefore a willing exponent of her ideas and lessons. They were very good.My part each morning was to give the children 5 minutes of PT, which they did enjoy for they do not get any regular exercise, then march them in in Indian file fashion into the big long room that we use as the classroom.After Margaret got them to sing hallo to each of us and the Nepali staff, the children were divided into groups. I was lucky for I got yhe four best and able children, it was a pleasure to help them with their English and its comprehension. They in turn helped me with the basic phrases and words of Nepali which I have found very useful in the hotel and shops. However by 1pm I have to admit feeling a bit tired. It is not easy keeping up with boisterous weans every day, you will all know what I mean and will problably laugh at the thought of me out here.
My big regret is not having had the chance to bond and talk with the school going boys, apart from last Friday when we all had a great day, I never see them, for as we leave at 4pm each day, they have not arrived back from school. Today I went to their school. It was one of the best mornings I have had.The school would stand well against any in the UK, the buildings are good, the classrooms look large and the pupils happy.All in all I was most impressed. I met the headmistress, the Guruamma, a quite lovely looking woman dressed in a pink sari. She was most elegant and an excellent communicator in English. All lessons are in English.Whilst we were there, the lunch bell rang out, and to my personal delight and surprise many of the orphanage boys came running across the playground to greet me, and what is more surprising I remembered their names.In front of the Guruamma, it was clear that they were pleased to see me. It raised their value of themselves I think, especially as they met someone they knew in front of the boss.Personally I loved it. All the pupils are smartly dressed in their uniforms and appear to be having a really excellent education. It certainly gives me hope that Nepal will come right, no matter the political problems which beset the country at the moment, and they are considerable.
Yesterday I phoned the GWT and they are getting in touch with the Gurkha depot in Pokhara to remind them of my visit this coming Sunday. I believe that the Gurkha museum there is well worth a visit. I shall report same in the next blog.
Tomorrow evening we are to be given a farewell dinner by Socialtours, the company who arranged the logistics of our time in Kathmandu.
So until Monday next this is the penultimate blog. I seems to me that all I have written is not of much interest to the so called followers for I have noticed very few comments about my blethers, perhaps it is because it is to most of you a load of blether.
No matter, I have enjoyed writing my story.
Pheri Namaste from what seems to be a permanently sunny Kathmandu.,

Monday 22 February 2010

Review of the past few days

Last Friday it was another public hoiday, but we went to the orphanage for the morning. I am glad I did for the schoolboys were all at home, and we had a great time. We played basketball, I divided the boys into 3 teams and we played against each other. They truly did seem to enjoy the company of aman, instead of all the women volunteers who had fone before. I must be one of the veryfew men to volunteer for the home. Ayway as I said we had a great time. One of the lads named Shankar is an absolute genius at origami. he made me garland, some birds, alovely flower for my jacket, wuite stunning. The boys then showed off their gymnasticskills, somersaults, brake dancing and hand stands, before presenting me with a small Nepali flag. How kind they were. I do believe they enjoyed my company as much as I did theirs!I enjoyed that morning as much as any since I have been here.
Saturday morning I have already described our Everest flight. In the afternoon we were invited by a lass called Shruti, who works at the home as a coordinator, to join here, her sister and her husband to a parents open day at their sons school.It was held in a huge auditorium, some 1,500 people were there, but for the first 2 hours it was like any school prize giving, there is always one speaker who does not seem to know when to stop! We were completely bored as we could not understand a word he and other speakers were saying, but after the prizes had been presented we were entertained to songs and dances by the pupils. All in all another nice experience.
Yesterday, Sunday we were to have what we believed to be a trip into the countryside to see rural Nepal.What a let down! We spent 2 hours in the most appaling traffic on roads too narrow for any rapid movement, there were plenty of holdups because of the huge lorries going up and down from some quarry and tryingwith enormous difficulty to pass each other. It was hot, very dusty and the fumes from the lorries got everywhere, all for a visit to a not particularly nice little Hindu termple in a somewhat down trodden forest. On the way back we did visit a collections of very poor hovels andin the centre of them a little barren square, whereI watched an old woman spin cotton just as it was done in Lancashire in the 18th century. Arkwright would have recognised her quite easily! The best part of the day, and that which rescued the trip was the visit to Durbar square in Patan a southern suburb of the city.Here are many temples, about 12 I would guess, all different and we visited the best museum of Hindu art in Asia. We had lunch on a roof top resturant, overlooking the scene. This was a worthwhile time. We then had to endure another 45 minutes through heavy dense traffic to get home. I fotgot to mention that the toilet at the restaurant was very dark and smelly and lit by one candle atop the toilet cistern! What a place!
Today a strike has been called by one of the political parties against the delay in formulating a new constitution which by law has to bein being by 28th May. No one believes it will happen.The strike was for us good in one way, for there were no cars, no buses, no taxis, no thousands of motor bikes around. All the shops were closed apart from tiny fruit and veg shops and fish and meat stalls Wewere able to walk the streets which were almost deserted apart fom pedestrians.Iris and I wandered down the narrow quiet lanes and came upon Durbar Square Kathmandu, anothe world heritage site and home yet again to a large variety of temples.Foreigners have to pay 3pounds to get into the precicnts butit was ascertained tha we were volunteers
we were given free admission. Nice gesture I thought.The sights andsounds the colours and the costumes were a true riot of colours a veritable kaleidoscope of patterns and hues, enchanting. After all this we decided to take a rickshaw back to the hotel. I fely quite guilty for the poor thin man hadto pedal as hard as he could to get us moving.He deserved the tip we gave.
Tomorrow we should all being well back at the orphanage. It is astonishing to think that we have only until Friday afternoon to go before we have to say goodbye to the children. I do not look forward to that, for we have made some nice wee friends. I do hope we have gven them just a little bit of love and care.
On Saturday we are going to fly to Pokhara for the weekend, returning next Monday when we shall have to pack up.
I intend whilst there to visit the Gurkha museum and then the Brigade of Gurkhas depot. Of cours I shall make a blog of that break.
Ajaa bihanna dherai ramailo chha ra sadak santa chha. Today itis very pleasant and the roads are quiet.
From a still sunny warm Kathmandu, I say again,
Namaste!

Saturday 20 February 2010

On top of the world 20.2.10

As the certificate said, today I did not climb Everest, but touched it with my heart!
What a day, what an experience, for the first time in a long time I do feel I shall not be able to communicate in words what I saw, how I felt on the trip this morning.Words such as awesome, magnificent, inspiring,incredible,wonderment appear so inadequate to express what the journey was like. Truly a moment never to forget.
Anyway, let's start at the beginning.
A wake up call at 5am, a quick cup of green tea, and then we were off by minibus at 6am to travel the 20 minute journey, this time through relatively quiet streets, to Tribithvan airport.We were due to fly at 7.30, but because of turbulence over the peak, the flight was delayed almost 2 hours. However we embarked on a wee plane of Buddha Airways, it held 16 passengers, and set off down the runway at 9.15am, climbing steadly in a north easterly direction through the haze of polluted air of Kathmandu, to soar above the clouds into the clear blue skies to get our first glimpse of the Himalaya range.I sat on the right side of the plane, so that those on the left had the views of the mountains on the outward journey.However when the plane banked at Everest, we then had the best views. As we flew along, with the range on the left of the plane, each person, in turn was invited up into the cockpit to be given a description of the peaks before us, and when it was my turn, I got the first view of the peak of Everest, away in the distance at about 11 o'clock compass wise.And what a sight it was, standing clearly, a grey triangle of mountain peak, spilling out from it a wispy scarf of cloud.Incredible. I got another chance to be with the crew in the cockpit, and the 2nd pilot took some shots for me from his window.The return journey allowed me to photograph the whole Himalya range, what peaks what mountains, what a border between Nepal and Tibet.Most of the peaks had some amount of snow upon them, Everest was mainly a slate grey colour with the lower slopes a brownish grey. The whole complex of mountains is quite extraordinary and one is left with the thought how in the name did anyone ever climb here. How did anyone climb Everest. Difficult to explain. What a challenge it must have been and still remains!
On thr flight back, the cabin was quiet, for all of us came to realise that we had seen and been on top of the world, it was quite an emotional moment I can say, an experience that shall never be repeated.They say thet to see Everest is one of the top 10 things one must do before you die. I do not know about the other nine, but today was simply beynd my imagination and shall suffice.
The pictures I have taken look ok and look forward to sending them to you when I get back.
I shall finish as I began this blog.
Today I did not climb Everest, but touched it with my heart.
From a lovely sunny afternoon in Kathmandu
Namaste!